Content
- The optimal rose care - briefly explained
- How best to water roses?
- How should you fertilize roses?
- Is a mulching on roses useful?
- When and how should you cut roses?
- The stronger the pruning, the stronger the new shoot
- Cut bed roses
- Cut shrub and wild roses
- Cut climbing roses
- How can you make roses winterproof?
- Tips
Roses are easier to clean than you think
The optimal rose care - briefly explained
Roses are popular but quite demanding garden plants. A wonderfully blooming rosebush is a wonderful eye-catcher, but you should care for it well - only then you will enjoy the beautiful flowering plant for a long time. Incidentally, it depends mainly on the type and variety of the rose, how to properly care for them. Detailed instructions for optimum rose care can be found in the following article.
Early article Next article Fertilize roses three times a yearHow best to water roses?
Roses should only be watered over extended periods of drought. However, this should be done so that the leaves do not get wet. Rose petals, which are moist for a long time, are often attacked by the stern soot, but also by the rose rust. From September you should no longer water roses, so that the shoots become woody and frost hardy.
How should you fertilize roses?
Roses are one of the high-consuming plants, so fertilization and thus the regular supply of nutrients is essential. The first fertilization takes place already in March, when you put between the roses about one to two fingers strong compost or other humus substances and work them flat in the soil. At the same time you provide the plant with an organic fertilizer, for example, a good Roünger. However, nitrogenous fertilizers such as blue-grain are less suitable for roses as they stimulate growth but suppress flowering. Finally, spring fertilization will be repeated in June, unless you have used a slow-release fertilizer from the outset.
Is a mulching on roses useful?
Especially in arid regions, mulching has proven its worth, in which between the roses an approximately ten centimeter thick layer of grass clippings is applied. This eliminates the need for soil loosening, and the soil under the mulch cover remains moist and you save too much watering. However, when mulched with bark mulch, you should also add nitrogen in organic or mineral form. This is intended to meet the needs of soil organisms that otherwise pull it out of the ground. As a result, the roses suffer from nitrogen deprivation.
When and how should you cut roses?
Most roses are cut back at the time of the forsythia blossom, ie towards the end of March to the beginning of April. Remove all thin and frozen shoots altogether, while the remaining ones are taken back to about three to four eyes - this corresponds to a length of about 20 centimeters. With vigorous waking varieties some buds can be left longer. In general, at least half of the shoot length is cut away, but be careful: How much the pruning fails and if ever cut (some rose varieties are only lighted!), Depending on the variety varies.
The stronger the pruning, the stronger the new shoot
For roses the same rule of thumb applies as for fruit trees: the more the pruning takes place, the stronger the re-emergence takes place. From the few remaining buds then arise only a few, but especially long and vigorous shoots. In contrast, a weak pruning, in which many eyes remain, even a slight sprouting result: there are numerous, but only short shoots. Consequently, Edelrosen, which are to develop particularly long shoots, should be strongly cut back; Beetroots, on the other hand, are weaker so that the bushes do not get too high.
Cut bed roses
In the case of bed roses it is usually sufficient to remove all weak and dry shoots and shorten the remaining ones only by about one quarter to one third of their length. If they become bled in the lower parts over the years and subside in the flowering, they are strongly rejuvenated, d. H. cut back to the old wood.
Cut shrub and wild roses
Shrub roses and shrubby wild rose bushes are only lighted, d. H. They remove dry and very thin shoots as well as those that are too dense. The natural shape of the shrub should be preserved, as the shrubs will be even more beautiful. Only in shrub rose varieties with very long, annual shoots, these are cut in half. On wild roses, the faded parts do not need to be taken away as these species develop rose hips. However, this work should not be overlooked in the case of flowering shrubs that bloom several times, as well as climbing roses, otherwise fruit will start to set and the second flower will be very weak.
Cut climbing roses
Climbing roses are only as light as possible. Only newly planted climbing roses are cut in at least half. Older shoots, recognizable by the dark wood, are removed directly on the ground or, if they develop strong young shoots near the ground, they are reset to this. Outdated climbing roses can be radically cut back.
How can you make roses winterproof?
At the beginning of stronger frosts, ie from about mid-November, climbing and bed roses are piled about 20 centimeters high. To do this, use a hoe to pull the soil from the bed of roses to the individual sticks or bring one-third to half-bucket of compost to each plant. This is followed by a cover with spruce branches. Rose high stems and delicate rose bushes are well packaged for the winter, preferably with jute or other breathable materials. Film is not very suitable.
Tips
Rose high stems can also be overwintered by laying down the crown in late autumn. To do this, carefully bend it to the ground and cover it with earth about 20 centimeters thick.