Content
- Gardening in March
- Raised beds with plenty of space for individuality
- Spring awakening in the rose garden
- Cut different depending on growth habit
In March, roses and other shrubs can be cut
Gardening in March
In March, the garden slowly awakens to new life. Therefore, now is the right time to do some gardening. The measures to be taken in March are explained below.
Raised beds with plenty of space for individuality
Much has already been written in the Gartenjournal about the unbeatable advantages of a raised bed and its different designs, as in this article for example. Sowing and planting of the back-friendly beds can start very early, as the decomposition process inside the soil provides favorable thermal conditions in the soil, which in turn has a growth-promoting effect on tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers & Co.
If the weather is good, we can be relatively sure that a lush and low-loss crop will ripen. The considerable expense involved in constructing and filling such a bed crate is, in most cases, already compensated for with the first harvest. That's why careful construction is important, as well as the selection of high-quality materials, so that even wooden raised beds last at least three to five years and often much longer. Our short tips on this:
Spring awakening in the rose garden
In March, our shrub and high stem roses need special attention, because the possibly frostbitten or brown shoots must now be rigorously cut back in favor of the healthy. An important prerequisite, however, would be that the mild weather continues at the end of March, which also makes the existing winter protection and the soil accumulated in late autumn superfluous.
Cut different depending on growth habit
Since it is in the coming days and weeks mainly to the renewed release of the roses, fertilization can be fertilized for the first time between the end of March into April. A special organic fertilizer is ideal, but it should still be used sparingly. Extremely important when cutting: Optimally, about five millimeters above the eye of the new shoots is set and as possible obliquely cropped. This ensures that the casting or rainwater can not settle on the surface of the cut surface to cause rot there in the worst case. How far the pruning takes depends on the desired growth result but also on the exact breeding method of the plant.
As a rule of thumb applies to all growth forms of roses: strong pruning causes strong but only a few long shoots. If truncated too weak, one must reckon with short, but many wakeful impulses.