Content
- When is the best time to cut roses?
- Cut back blooming roses in spring
- In the spring, clear and rejuvenate all the roses
- Summer cut keeps roses in shape
- Extend flowering time by pinning
- Cutting back the blooms
- Shape cut for once-blooming roses
- Cut roses in the cold season
- Tips
Pre-flowering roses get their pruning in spring
When is the best time to cut roses?
Even though it seems unbelievable in view of the many publications on the topic, which almost all have complicated cutting rules: Roses are among the most cut-friendly shrubs. A regular cut promotes good health and flowering, as well as extending the life of the rose. However, at what time of the year what measures should be taken to pruning, we have compiled in this article.
Cut back blooming roses in spring
Most gardeners are probably aware that roses are usually cut in spring: an old rule says pruning must be done when forsythia blooms - this is usually the case between late March and early April. Basically, this statement is correct, with one exception: once-flowering roses (which include almost all historical roses) are always cut back after flowering in the summer, as they bloom only on pre- or perennial wood. The spring cut is therefore only in frequently flowering rose varieties (including all modern roses belong) carried out. In these, the pruning promotes new shoots and thus, as the modern roses flower on annual wood, also the abundance of flowers in the same year.
In the spring, clear and rejuvenate all the roses
But whether it blooms once or more often: All roses must be lighted in the spring, with frozen and sick shoots must be removed. These are cut to the base or to healthy wood. In the healthy marrow you cut back so far, until it looks greenish-white and shows no more brown spots. In addition, remove all thin and weak shoots, as they can not carry flowers anyway and thus rob the plant only power. Do not let any stub shafts stand in the way: these are attack surfaces for mushrooms.
Summer cut keeps roses in shape
Summer cut measures are an important means to encourage the flowering and flowering. This will extend the rose bloom until autumn. You can also tackle a formal cut for once-blooming Old Roses and Ramblers in the warm summer months.
Extend flowering time by pinning
After the abundance of blossoms in June, all roses have a phase in which only a few flowers are visible. Most plants have to regain strength for the next flower approach, so it is - at least in the more often flowering varieties - a kind of rest phase. You can sometimes avoid the blooming break with a trick, the so-called pinching. Do the following:
Cutting back the blooms
After flowering, the withered shoot is cut back to the next complete leaf. If you look closely at the blown shoot, you realize that there is no complete multi-piece leaf just below the flower. This leaf is only one to three parts. Only the second or third leaf below is a fully formed, d. H. it is five, seven or even nine parts, depending on the variety. Directly above this leaf cut off the withered shoots and the eye will again cast out again. Usually new flowers are formed within the next six weeks. For tufted roses, wait until all flowers have faded. Then you can cut back the whole inflorescence to a fully developed leaf.
Shape cut for once-blooming roses
All single-flowered roses should be shaped directly after flowering. In contrast to the cut of the frequently flowering varieties only now old shoots are removed. The newly awake shoots will then flower in the next year. Old roses tend to laterally long lashes, which lay on the ground or grow far into the other planting. You can cut them back without any disadvantages or use them as a sinker for propagation. For rambler and cascade roses, cut long shoots after flowering and take older shoots back to the base.
Cut roses in the cold season
The autumn cut is mainly done for health care reasons, to prevent infestation with the typical rose diseases. You cut back before the winter break dead plant material back to eliminate possible sources of infection. Dead shoots are preferentially colonized by fungi and bacteria, which in turn cause rot and infection. To avoid this, trim all weak and thin shoots just before the winter - when there were first frosty nights. So deadwood can not even arise and mushrooms have no chance.
Tips
Wild shoots should always be removed in time, because if they spew out below the refining point, they can completely overgrow a rose. As a result, this dies and the wild rose base takes its place. Do not simply cut the shoot - it will always regrow. Use the spade to set the finishing point free and tear off the shoot with a twisting motion.