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Cut flower sage and spice sage properly - tutorial with instructions

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Author: Peter Berry
Date Of Creation: 15 February 2021
Update Date: 28 June 2024
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Flower sage is cut twice a year

Cut flower sage and spice sage properly - tutorial with instructions

Sage should be cut regularly to bring out its unique benefits. The knowledgeable cut care distinguishes between herbaceous perennials and woody shrubs. Read in this tutorial when and how to cut sage properly.

Sage species differences

The multifaceted genus sage brings home gardeners magnificent ornamental perennials and aromatic calycanthus alike. Each of the two categories has convincing attributes, so that in many gardens both variants can be found. The knowledgeable cut care should take into account the diverse growth, so that each sage species shows its best side. Representing the extensive genus, the following summary summarizes important cut-relevant differences for two popular species:

Flower sage, steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa)

Spice Sage, Garden Sage, True Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Although sage is native to the Mediterranean, both species and resulting varieties prove to be very hardy in the Central European climate.


Cut flower sage twice a year

In the creative garden design, a regular place is reserved for flower sage in the perennial border. The inedible nature of its felty leaves makes up for steppe sage through its lavish floral splendor in summertime, accompanied by a wonderful fragrance. Since flower sage is one of the remounting shrubs, he celebrates his colorful appearance twice a season. Accordingly, the scissors are used in spring and summer. How to cut flower sage:

The summer cut should leave some leaves on the stems, so that the perennial can drive out and bloom again. Then administer a mineral fertilizer, which quickly develops its effect and promotes growth. If the second flowering florida approaches the end, no cut is made. The dead shoots and leaves act as a natural winter protection. Only withered flower spikes you can clean out, if a self-sowing is not desired.

Tips

The summer cut on flower sage leaves a fairly bald spot in the perennial border for some time. Until the plant floats again, beautiful neighboring plants bridge the waiting time. Compose steppe sage with needle-leaved maiden eye (Coreopsis verticillata), dyer's chamomile (Anthemis) or pearl basket 'silver rain' (Anaphalis triplinervis). Even with lamprey grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides), sage cultivates good neighborhood, so that no empty bedding regions arise.


Spice Sage - Cut Guide

The cut care of spice sage is a permanent fight against progressive woodiness, Its aromatic leaves are primarily native to the sage herbaceous annuals, These freeze completely in the severe winter and drift again in the spring. From below, the plant constantly strives to lign its shoots. Without a regular pruning, the lignification process gains the upper hand and puts an end to the growth of spicy leaves. In terms of cut care, sage therefore pulls together with other Mediterranean beauties, such as lavender and rosemary. How to do it right:

Sage gratefully accepts an organic fertilizer after the central shape and maintenance cut. A combination of ripe compost and horn shavings gets the growth of the herb plant going. In August, the winter hardiness benefits from a potassium-stressed fertilizer, such as comfrey.

Skinning optimizes crop yield

Just a few weeks after the late-winter main cut, sage is once again becoming the focus of cut care. In this case, the scissors can certainly remain in the shed. If you break off the fresh shoots from mid-May, the measure scores with several advantages. The beginning of the flowering period shifts so that the aroma content of the leaves is retained longer. Furthermore, you promote the further herbaceous branching, which increases the yield and restrains the lignification.

For pinching, as jargon is called, you cover the tip of a sage stalk between your thumb and forefinger. With the fingernails, the shoot tip snap off where the next leaf or bud pair is in waiting position. Of course you can also use a clean, sharp pair of scissors to prick.

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Hedge trimmer masters sage giants

If the chosen location simulates Mediterranean conditions, spice sage develops expansive dimensions. Dedicating each individual shoot with the one-handed secateurs takes time and nerves. You are well prepared for the annual form and maintenance cut with a two-hand hedge trimmer, ideally with a bypass mechanism. As long as you move in the herbaceous area when cutting, the semi-shrub easily tolerates the shirt-sleeved approach.

Rejuvenation cut reverses lignification

If older shoots are more than half or even two thirds lignified, there is the option of a rejuvenation by means of derivation cut. Look for a herbaceous side shoot along the woody sage twig. If you can not find what you are looking for, a swelling bud will signal that the subshrubs still have potential for herbaceous, aroma-rich growth. The further down the runner or bud are, the sweeter the rejuvenation effect.

Just above the vegetation point, you put on the scissors. A distance of 5 to 10 millimeters guarantees that you do not cut into the herbaceous shoot or the bud nor leave an overlong stub. As illustrated below, the recommended cut significantly reduces the local degree of lignification and paves the way for herbaceous stems with numerous sage leaves.

Every year, derive older shoots on a lower, herbaceous side shoot or a vital bud. Where both components are missing, clear the shoot from ground level. Thus you promote the growth of numerous young shoots with aromatic leaves.

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Spice Sage knacks with buds


As a typical Mediterranean half-spice, spice-sage is defensive when cut into the wood. As generously as the Mediterranean herbal plant spits spicy leaves from the herbaceous shoots, it is so sparing in the disposition of sleeping eyes. Native shrubs can access this iron reserve to resume growth after a vigorous pruning. On spice sage results in a cut into the wood mostly with the end of growth. The only exception is in the rare case that you discover a thick, vital bud on the woody shoot. Put the scissors in 5-10 mm distance, there are good prospects for a shoot.

Harvest and cut at the same time

Sage gardeners with limited time do the harvest and cut care at the same time. This also has the advantage that you harvest sage just when its aroma content is at its zenith. The only prerequisite for the rational procedure is sufficient capacity to freeze or dry the excess crop. How to proceed step by step:

Never cut into old wood, because growth usually stops here. Restrict the cut circumference to the herbaceous, leafy area, and then re-emerge, giving you another harvest in suitable weather conditions. From the middle of August, this year's season for harvesting and cutting sage will end so that the subshrub can mature before winter.

Does the combined harvest and care cut deliver a greater yield than the kitchen can use? Then search out woody head cuttings. With a length of 5 to 10 centimeters, the shoot tips are perfect for propagation. Remove all leaves in the lower half and place each offshoot in a pot with potting soil. In the warm, partially shaded location with regular water supply, the rooting progresses rapidly.

frequently asked Questions

Is sage hardy?

The most popular sage species for bed and balcony are sufficiently hardy. This applies to true sage (Salvia officinalis) and flower sage (Salvia nemorosa) and all varieties resulting from it. Silver leaf sage (Salvia argentea) and Muscat sage (Salvia sclarea) also prove to be frost resistant with light winter protection. If you flirt with extravagant sage species from subtropical regions, there is no question of winter hardiness. This applies, among other things, for crested sage (Salvia viridis), honeydew melon sage (Salvia elegans) and fruit sage (Salvia dorisiana).

Are flowers and leaves edible of steppe sage?

Steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa) is also called flower sage, because its benefits are related to decorative aspects. The popular sage species adorns the summery perennial flowerbed from May to October, accompanied by a seductive scent, with its picturesque flowers. Strive for the harvest of spicy leaves and aromatic flowers, please refer back to genuine sage (Salvia officinalis) or one of its varied varieties.

Would you like to transplant our three-year-old spice sage to a sunnier location? When and how does it work best?

The best time to relocate spice-sage is in early spring, as long as the plant has not expelled. The less root volume lost during excavation, the better the plant copes with the procedure. At the new location, plant the sage in such a way that the previous planting depth is preserved. Combine the transplanting work with a vigorous pruning to restore the balance between subterranean and above-ground growth. Adequate water supply is important in the future, to support the re-rooting.

Is flower sage a suitable rose partner?

From a botanical point of view, roses and blossom sage are in perfect harmony. Both plant species put similar conditions on the site and do not get into the enclosure with their roots. Furthermore, the essential oils help to ward off aphids and other pests of roses. Last but not least, flower sage and roses at the same time in spring wish a pruning.

The withered flowers of my garden salve bother me a lot. Can I cut back the shrubs now in October?

From a radical pruning so close to the winter is strongly discouraged. The herbaceous shoots are also used in the dead state as an important winter protection. However, there is nothing wrong with cutting off the withered flower panicles if the cultivated appearance in the bed is compromised. After the first frost, flower sage should no longer be blended.

Flower Sage, Pusztaflamme 'should actually grow upright. In my garden he falls apart and is partially on the ground. What to do?

Strong heat and dryness can cause blossom sage to fall apart. A thrown ball or careless kicking are also typical causes of the mishap. By nature, the perennial grows tightly upright. By cutting all shoots down to a hand's breadth above the ground, you stimulate a renewed and this time upright growth.

The 3 most common cut defects

Anyone who cuts spice-sage as well as flower-sage, will at worst quarrel with a total loss of the valuable herb plant. If true sage cheats past a regular cut care, the shoots lignify rapidly and no longer bring a tasty harvest. This table draws attention to common sage cutting errors, indicates typical damage patterns, and provides brief hints for effective prevention:

Another, common cutting error affects spice and flower sage alike. Garden enthusiasts who love gardening can be tempted to cut off the dead plant parts prematurely after the onset of winter. With this measure, the Mediterranean plant loses its natural winter protection. Note the date for cutting sage on the care plan at the end of February at the earliest, unless severe frost periods are to be expected.

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Tips

Cutting spice sage leaves more clippings than the kitchen can handle. How well that sage leaves retain much of their aroma after drying. Bundle whole shoots into posylets. These hang you upside down in a breezy, dry place. Sage leaves are dry within one to two weeks and can be kept in airtight jars until use.