Content
- How to properly trim column fruit - Tutorial for cut care
- Pale fruit types and dates
- Rarely cut the apple column
- background
- Cut on Astring - that's how it works
- Cut pear column annually
- Tips
- Cut the cherry stalk if necessary
- foray
- Forget about cutting pillared fruit in stages
- Occasionally cut the plum column
- Pale fruit too high - what to do?
- frequently asked Questions
- Is pillar fruit self-fertile?
- The top of our pillar cherry has dried up over a length of 30 centimeters. Otherwise, the plant makes a healthy impression. Should I cut the tip or not?
- I would like to plant column fruit in the tub for the balcony and terrace. What to look for?
- My column plum is 3 years old, thrives magnificently and profitably. I'm unsure about the cut care. When and how should I cut?
- My pillar cherries are now 14 years old, nearly 5 meters high and very sprawling. Can I restore the slim growth habit with one cut? Is this worthwhile with such old pillared fruit?
- The 3 most common cut defects
- Tips
How much and when column fruit should be cut, depends on the type of fruit
How to properly trim column fruit - Tutorial for cut care
Narrow-awake fruit trees are the green wonders of space in the small garden and on the balcony. Apple, pear, cherry and plum flourish magnificently as high-yield pillared fruit. What is important in the cut care, you can read in this tutorial.
Pale fruit types and dates
The steep career of column fruit began with the apple. It did not take long for gardeners to be able to enjoy space-poor pillars. In the trendy urban gardening, pillar cherries and plum peacocks are also commonplace in the large tub. Low space requirements and an uncomplicated cut care have made column fruit so popular. A key function is the correct cutting time. Before you familiarize yourself in this tutorial with a type-compliant cut, please take a look at this table with recommended dates:
In addition, the Federal Nature Conservation Act has an influence on the choice of dates. As long as it is a light caring cut that could not disturb nesting birds, it may be done in the summer. Extensive cutting measures are permitted by law from 1 October to 28 February, provided that no wintering animals are present in the wood.
Rarely cut the apple column
A columnar habit is naturally preprogrammed in the genetic makeup of apple varieties only. In fact, all the apple columns are due to a progenitor, who as natural mutation thrives. The short fruitwood springs directly from a strong, tightly upright central shoot. The individual growth as so-called Schnurbaum rarely requires a horticultural intervention with scissors or saw. How to cut a column apple correctly:
If the cut leaves a more than 5 centimeters long stub, the apple column pushes out vigorously at this point. If it affects your columnar fruit, remove all overlong and inward-looking young shoots. Short, low-priced shoots leave you as future fruit wood. If such a short drive grows too steep, adjust the direction of growth with an expanding wood or string to an ideal angle of 60 ° to the column trunk.
Video proof for a short as well as meaningful explanatory video for the cut on a column apple:
Youtube
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Cut on Astring - that's how it works
Too long or steep branches affect crop yield and fruit quality on your columnar apple. Can you at the relevant shoot no fruiting approach he will recognize cut away on Astring, In this cutting technique, use a pair of scissors or saw so that the small bead between the branch and the trunk is not damaged. If such an astring does not exist, cut parallel to the column trunk. Important: Do not cut into the stem bark and leave no stub left over.Cut pear column annually
A pear column grows stronger than an apple column. Furthermore, pears are not a natural growth habit, but rather a selection of particularly slender spindle trees, which are finished on a weak surface. Both conditions require a different cut than the column apple. After a few years without cut care form long runnerswho sabotage the slender growth as a cord tree. How to complete the perfect bulb column cut:
On this occasion you should all Auslichten Steeiltriebethat are in competition with the column trunk. Prune these branches as well short cones, In the following years drive out several young drives. Choose up to three flat short shoots, which are suitable for fruit wood. All other young drives have to give way.
Tips
You will master the cut care of column fruit with a bypass scissors. The special advantage lies in two sharp blades, which run against each other and produce smooth cuts. Anvil scissors are composed of a sharp edge and a blunt counterpart, the anvil. This reduces the effort; In return, there is the danger of bruising on the instinct with manifold negative consequences.
Cut the cherry stalk if necessary
A pillar cherry was originally supposed to thrive as a spindle tree. Because the tree was emphasized in the school with strong center drive and extra short side shoots, it was chosen by the gardener to the column fruit and ennobled on a weak growth pad. Over the years, a cherry blossom column tends to sprout sterile long and steep shoots, which run counter to the productive column growth.With a summery maintenance cut you bring the growth back into balance. How to cut correctly:
As demonstrated in the figure below, the Conservation Section is also dedicated to steep upright branches. These turn out to be Competition to the column trunk unpopular and should away become. Cut here also on short pins. This cut allows for a fresh shoot, which, with a little luck, will produce new short shoots that will be useful as a fruit wood.
To keep a slender stalk from slicing, cut long overlapping branches back onto short pegs. Remove Steiltriebe because they are in competition with the trunk and torpedo the columnar form.
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Forget about cutting pillared fruit in stages
Characteristic of many species of fruit perennial is a premature aging in the lower half. In the upper area are still no signs of aging at this time. By cutting out prized column fruit on different dates in stages, you can compensate for the shortcoming. The weaker lower section will be blended in February to accelerate growth. The stronger, vital upper area is cut in the summer. Recommended is the strategy for pear, cherry and plum. As the only true pillar tree apple does not tend to premature aging and does not need this cutting measure.
Occasionally cut the plum column
Cutting prunes and cherries in columnar form does not differ. Both stone fruit species benefit from an occasional care and conservation cut after the harvest. Who misses this appointment, brings the cut care to during the deciduous autumn and winter. Slash the center of your column plum by cutting back excessively long side branches onto a short pin. Steep drives are not desirable in a plum column and are lighted.
Pale fruit too high - what to do?
Vital growth at a young age makes pillar fruit grow to undesirable heights. In this case, please do not be tempted to unknowingly cut off the middle drive tip. Removal of the tip bud causes massive budding of lateral buds because the juice pressure is redirected there. To the premises in the Schnittpflege of column fruit applies the rule of thumb: Caps of the trunk tip is taboo.
You do not have to accept unwanted height growth on pillared fruit. How to regulate the trunk height by means of derivation section:
From now on, the previous side branch takes over the leading position. On strongly awake fruit pillars, such as pear or cherry, please wait with the derivation cut until after a few years the growth calms down. Until then, the desired final height is temporarily exceeded. A premature cut, even as a derivative, results in a massive sprouting that spoils your enjoyment of the pillar fruit.
frequently asked Questions
Is pillar fruit self-fertile?
Mostly, column fruit is dependent on a second variety as a pollinator. For apples, pears, plums or cherries, this task can be taken over by a normal fruit tree in the neighbor's garden. Balkongärtner summarily two plants in a large bucket. Although nurseries and garden centers offer some self-fertile species in columnar form, crop yield and fruit quality are mostly disappointing without a neighboring pollinator.
The top of our pillar cherry has dried up over a length of 30 centimeters. Otherwise, the plant makes a healthy impression. Should I cut the tip or not?
A look inside the shoot helps with the decision. Scrape off the bark a bit. If brown tissue appears, the wood in this area has died. If the shoot below the bark is still green, the cherry tree probably suffers from drought stress and again drives out. Cut the shoot tip back into healthy wood.
I would like to plant column fruit in the tub for the balcony and terrace. What to look for?
The heavily restricted root space in the bucket makes the cultivation of column fruit a gardening balancing act. Like any fruit, also column fruit should be planted in the bed if possible. The successful bucket attitude is crucially dependent on ensuring a regular supply of water and nutrients. Furthermore, we recommend a large bucket with at least 20 liters volume at the beginning. Over the years, the pot should grow. Every 2 to 3 years, transplant your pillared fruit into a new bucket with fresh substrate or replace the soil completely.
My column plum is 3 years old, thrives magnificently and profitably. I'm unsure about the cut care. When and how should I cut?
As long as your column plum meets all expectations, a pruning is not necessary. Generally, column fruit should grow almost uncut. Only overlong lateral shoots are shortened to a length of 15 to 20 centimeters. On this occasion, you will clear out deadwood and cliffs.
My pillar cherries are now 14 years old, nearly 5 meters high and very sprawling. Can I restore the slim growth habit with one cut? Is this worthwhile with such old pillared fruit?
The garden practice has taught us that column fruit can be quite 25 years old. Consequently, a rejuvenation cut for your pillar cherries definitely worth it. Since the cut goes beyond a normal conservation cut, we recommend an appointment in February, in accordance with the provisions of the Federal Nature Conservation Act. Cut all side branches back to 2 to 4 eyes. Deadwood and Steep shoots light you out. If you want to shorten the height, derive the trunk tip on a lower, healthy side shoot. In March, you will be given an organic fruit tree fertilizer or a mixture of compost and horn shavings to strengthen.
The 3 most common cut defects
When a pillar bulb is cut like a columnar apple, the cutting error reduces future cropping to a minimum. To renounce completely on a pruning, is punished with a string tree, reminding only remotely of slender, fruitful column fruit. The following table draws attention to the three most common cutting errors, gives hints to the typical damage pattern and has tips for the prevention:
Another common mistake in the cut care undermines house gardeners in the appointment choice. The many plea for a cut in overcast weather tempted to intersect pillar fruit in rainy weather. On wounds in damp wood pathogenic activators waited. Primary are wound parasites that cause the dreaded tree crab. The cunning mushroom spores can germinate only in damp wood. For this reason, pruning columnar fruit principally in dry, cloudy weather.
Tips
There is the potential for fruitwood in every downdraft. Do not simply cut a tightly upright branch on the column fruit. Check beforehand if it is positioned so favorably that it is worth spreading. Tie the shoot with string at an angle of about 60 ° to the center drive. Spreading wood or clothespins also allow the growth to be directed in the oblique direction. Flowers and fruits will not be long in coming.