Content
- Cut Rosenhecke correctly
- Wild roses need little care
- Pay attention to the eyes when cutting
- Different cutting rules for different types of roses
- Holly hedge and rejuvenate
- Tips
Wild roses need little care
Cut Rosenhecke correctly
When the buds swell, it's time for a nourishing spring cut. Cutting maintains and improves the rose health, promotes flower buds and extends the life of the flowers - this also applies, of course, to rose hedges. Keep in mind, however, that these romantic hedges can not be accurately shaped like hedges from books or conifers.
Wild roses need little care
When it comes to cut care, wild roses and their hybrids are the easiest to use, because you can simply grow these roses - wild roses should always be cut as little as possible. But you can also venture a more vigorous pruning with wild roses, the robust roses will cope and constantly expel again. Wild roses have the ability to constantly rejuvenate from the base, adapted to the regular game bite.
Pay attention to the eyes when cutting
In spring, the swelling eyes at the end of the shoot are the first to stand out. The underlying, so-called "sleeping eyes" drive out later. At first they are only recognizable as a weak cross line. A pruning is to promote the formation of new shoots from the lower sleeping eyes. Cut about five to ten millimeters over an outward-facing eye, and then the new shoot grows outward. The technique keeps the shrub open and airy, thus preventing fungal diseases - especially important in a closely guarded rose hedge.
Different cutting rules for different types of roses
Flowering roses bloom on this year's shoots, d. H. on one-year wood. A cut in the spring promotes new shoots and thus the bloom fullness in the same year. Single-flowered roses bloom on the shoots they formed last year and on perennial wood. They are therefore cut immediately after flowering. Then they develop new shoots that can mature well until winter.
Holly hedge and rejuvenate
For all roses, the spring cut starts with a clearing cut. First cut all frozen and sick shoots back to the base or into the healthy wood. Healthy shoots show whitish marrow, ill brownish. Then remove all thin and weak shoots, the stronger ones can better carry the flowers. Even crossing drives are cut back, because they hurt each other. Therefore, remove the weaker one.
Tips
Furthermore, cut all three- to five-year-old branches - you recognize them by the barky bark - down to the ground. The cut stimulates the formation of new shoots.