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Cutting roses perfectly - tutorial with instructions for rose classes

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Author: Robert Simon
Date Of Creation: 20 June 2021
Update Date: 24 June 2024
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7 Rules for Pruning Roses
Video: 7 Rules for Pruning Roses

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For roses, the annual pruning is especially important

Cutting roses perfectly - tutorial with instructions for rose classes

A rosary presents itself in opulent Sunday dress, when the gardener understands the proper cut care. This tutorial will familiarize you with the basics of cutting roses. Comprehensible instructions explain the cut for important rose classes.

Important rose classes at a glance

More than 30,000 varieties of roses promote the gardener's favor. In order not to lose track of selection and maintenance, the classification into rose classes serves as a helpful guideline. The decisive distinguishing criterion is the growth form, which at the same time influences the cut care. A worldwide classification system is not yet available. Furthermore, modern varieties are not always unique. After all, the following table with important rose classes provides a practical orientation guide for private rose gardeners:

In addition to the two traditional cut dates in spring and summer, an autumnal time comes into focus. Under what conditions rose gardeners in the fall again reach for the scissors, illuminated a separate tutorial.


Principles in Rose Cut

Part of the small basics of cut care is that a rose gardener is familiar with important principles. These premises apply regardless of which class of roses thrives in your garden. To get started, our basic tutorial introduces fundamental principles for cutting roses in the abstract:

The most luxuriant flowering takes place - depending on the rose class - on the one- and two-year-old shoots, For a cut to achieve the optimal flower yield, it should produce as many branches of second and third order as possible. The figure below illustrates how to correctly differentiate the shoots of a rose according to their ranking. Straight shoots of the first order sprout directly from the main shoot. A side shoot of first order branches to side shoots of second order and so on. If you are familiar with the hierarchy and fundamentals, you can not go wrong when cutting roses.



The ranking of the side shoots dictates the correct cut. The focus is on shoots of the second and third order as valuable blossom wood.

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Cut scope dictates growth power

A fundamental finding in pruning reveals: the stronger a pruning, the stronger the sprouting. The reason for this law is the juice pressure. With each cut, the juice pressure under the interface increases, because less drive mass is to be supplied. Cut off only the shoot tip, the change is minimal. However, if you cut half or two-thirds of a rose shoot, the plant sap accumulates nutrients in the baggage massively. As a result, sleeping eyes are activated and kick out happily. Measure the cut circumference of roses according to this rule of thumb: cut a high-growth rose little - cut vigorously a weak-growing rose.

Cut the fresh roses vigorously

The cut on Edelrosen aims at the formation of numerous long and straight flower stalks. At the top, majestic flowers thrive in summer. Too tight a branching is just an annoying disruptive factor. The figure below shows that the precious roses benefit from a strong pruning. With the following cut you direct the growth in spring and summer in the desired direction:

Preventing aging and the unfavorable high-legged growth is a continuous rejuvenation. For this purpose, you prepare the oldest ground sprout on the approach to aged Edelrosen in each spring.

Cut your precious roses back to three to five buds. Low-growth varieties should keep a maximum of 4, strong varieties a maximum of 6 shoots. On aged Edelrosen remove the oldest shoot ground level in the sense of a continuous rejuvenation.

Tune bedroot cut to growth power

With five to seven bottom shoots, bed roses are well placed for a long, wasteful flowering time. The aim of the cut care is to promote the valuable blossom wood and to keep long shoots in check. If overlong shoots protrude from a rose bush, sooner or later the bed rose will fall apart. How to complete the perfect cut:

So that roses show the desired reaction to a cut, it depends on the correct cut. The figure below illustrates where and how you cut bed roses and other rose species. Place the scissors five to 10 millimeters above an outwardly white bud. Cut too short, the bud is injured and never expels. Cutting too far away, a dried stump forms as a portal of entry for pathogenic pathogens.

If a bed rose is getting old, the annual clearing of an old floor drive provides new life courage. In the last step of the main cut, cut off a withered branch near the ground. The resulting juice jam encourages young wood to venture out into the light.


Always cut a rose shoot 5 to 10 mm above a well-visible bud that faces outward. A slight inclination of the rose scissors prevents the rain or irrigation water drowning the bud

Cut the occasional flowering shrub roses

Shrub roses build a stable framework in the first years. This consists of five to eight bottom shoots With Side shoots of first and second order, Thus, the floral foundation is created for vital annual shoots with numerous flowers. In addition to the scaffolding structure, the cut care works to prevent from the beginning of a Verkahlung from below. With this cutting strategy the plan succeeds:

The correct decision on the number of floor drives depends on two aspects. The airier a shrub rose is structured, the faster its leaves dry off after a downpour. Furthermore, historical flowering shrub roses with thinner shoots thrive. These break under the load of magnificent flowers. By supporting a denser network of branches, the risk is bypassed. Modern varieties have stouter shoots with larger diameters and can handle three to five frames.

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Remove wild shoots continuously


The most beautiful roses for bed and balcony are finished on a robust, vigorous game pad. It's just this vigor that can cause problems for your roses. With vehemence, the padding drives wildlings that compete with the precious part for light, nutrients and water. To identify is the unwanted shoot on her foliage. Cultivated roses thrive on leaflets of three, five or seven single leaves. In contrast, the leaves of wildlings from up to fifteen single leaves together. Have you discovered a wild drive, tear it off with a courageous jerk.

Cut once-flowering shrub roses

The cut of once-flowering shrub roses differs markedly from their more frequently flowering species. As a rule, they are historical varieties from the 19th century, such as the legendary "Queen of Denmark" from 1816 or "Mme. Hardy "from 1832. The floral divas plant their flower buds on the wood of the previous year. For this reason, the main section is made in summer. In spring, a once-blooming shrub rose is brought into shape only. How to cut with horticultural expertise:

Some lovers of once-flowering historical varieties do not crop their roses at all. These shrub roses achieve imposing dimensions that are significantly higher than those of historical sources. In this case, the roses should be thoroughly screened at least every five to six years. Furthermore, a rejuvenation of highly branched shoot tips is recommended by using the cutting technique of the derivative.


If shrub roses bloom only once, they plant their flower buds in late summer. Cut back this year's long shoots in August to create more short flowering shoots for next year.

Dwarf dwarf roses

Zwergrosen get out in the summer with a sea of ​​colorful flowers under which the leaves and shoots almost disappear. The little beauties bloom on this year's branches several times a season and refrain from forming a supporting framework structure. The mainly weak growth requires one strong pruningso that each year a lush rose bush in small format develops again. That is how it goes:

The summer care cut is dedicated to withered flowers and not limited to a single appointment. Rather, your dwarf roses shine in painterly splendor as you continuously cut out everything that has withered. Only when the flowering period is definitely over, do you cut down flowered shoot tips back to the first healthy pinnate leaf.

Tips

In winter-gray regions, rose gardeners give preference to more often flowering varieties. One-time flowering roses lay their flower buds in the previous year, which must be overwintered unscathed. A harsh winter can destroy the valuable flowering plants in just one night. Blooming roses avoid this deficiency several times, because they bring their buds into position primarily on this year's shoots.

Cut groundcover roses every 3 years

It is truly no pleasure to cut a green area with thorny tendrils. As well, that groundcover roses are only to be noted every 2 to 3 years on the schedule for the cut care. A particular advantage of this class of roses is that the shrubs drift through and bloom even without summerly plastering, as long as all other conditions are right. How to cut ground cover roses properly:

Grow shoots beyond the intended bed area, shorten them until just above a bud. At the end of a ground cover rose each main shoot should have at least two to three side shoots, from which the blossom wood can sprout.

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Planting - prologue of cut care

Late winter maintenance and summer care cuts are not the only important cuts for your roses. In connection with planting, you subject the young roses to a planting. On rootless goods cut the roots to a length of 20 to 25 cm before planting. Damaged shoots are removed on Astring. In the first spring, trim all branches to three to five buds. This is also the procedure for container goods, where the roots remain untrimmed.

Form climbing roses on the trellis

Unsurpassed masters in terms of growth power and flower abundance are more often blooming climbing roses. If a stable climbing aid is ready, the roses turn facades, arbors and arches into a summery flower fairy tale. A key function for the floral splendor is the right cut. It is important to evenly overgrow the climbing aid and to lure numerous flowers. With this cut you succeed:

The cut main shoots are now similar to a "chicken ladder" and are fixed to the climbing aid. The before / after effect is illustrated below. Begin the formation with the most promising drive and work your way through. You may not need all the main drives, so you can end up removing the weakest ones. One-year long shoots, however, are the floral hope for your climbing rose and are spared by the scissors.

Rarely cut wild roses

Wild roses are an asset to any natural garden. Not created are the rosy natural beauties for an annual cut care. Attempts to squeeze a wild rose into a cut are doomed to failure. A single bottom shoot will remain vital and flowering for up to six years. So that wild roses do not turn into a withered, impenetrable thicket, every four to five years makes a cut for order. So a wild rose stays young and floriferous for many years:

If young, green wood is in short supply in a wild rose, cut back some of the older, two- to three-year-old shoots up to 40 centimeters. The result is a juice jam that encourages sleeping eyes to budge. If the truncated branch is tangled in a dense network, please do not use force when pulling it out. Too great is the risk that valuable blossom wood will be damaged. Instead, divide the old wood to get hold of it better.

Cutting tool for the rose cut

A rose gardener always has his rose scissors at hand, because it is the most important tool. Furthermore, the basic equipment includes a pruner and a folding knife. There are many options available on the market. The basic features of the cutting tool are summarized in the following overview:

Rose scissors and pruning shears

Branch saw, folding saw

With cheap tools from discounters you will not meet the high demands of your roses. Please look at well-known brand manufacturers such as Okatsune, Fiskars, Felco or Kumamoto. The investment in premium quality is rewarded with a smooth process of cutting, so you can concentrate fully on the perfect course of action.

frequently asked Questions

What does ADR-Rose mean?

ADR stands for Approved German Rose and is to be understood as a seal of quality. The title is awarded only to those roses that were planted in one of eleven sightseeing gardens and persuaded with health and high ornamental value over a period of three to four years. One of the most important premises is that healthy growth succeeds without the use of pesticides. Further criteria are hardiness, healthy leaves, self-cleaning or overall impression. So far, about 150 varieties have achieved the predicate ADR-Rose.

When is the best planting time for roses?

In the container drawn roses you can plant during the entire growing season in the bed or the tub. For root-bare goods, the time window for planting is open from October to March. This is on condition that the earth is not frozen and the thermometer is above freezing.

My heart is bleeding, cutting my roses as vigorously as you can read in many instructions. Why should a rose ever be so deeply blended?

With your concerns you are not alone. Many rose friends quarrel radically cutting back roses in the spring. Hobby gardeners often assume that it costs a rose too much strength if it has already started to bud. The truth is that roses just go out at the end of a branch. Aging and woodiness are inevitable if the shoots are not shortened regularly. Without an annual cut care, the flowering shrubs from the base are becoming increasingly bare with a few flowers in the upper area.

When and how should I cut a high-stem rose?

Hochstammrosen are the combination of root with stem of a wild rose, finished with a bed of beet, shrub or edelrose as a crown. In the spring, cut the crown back to 20 to 40 centimeters. If it is a dwarf rose crown, cut the branches to 10 centimeters. An exception applies to once-flowering cascade roses. The crowns bloom on the previous year's wood and should only be lighted and easily cut into shape. Make sure that you do not cut into the spherical finishing point, which is in the transition from the trunk to the crown.

The 3 most common cut defects

The Queen of Flowers graciously pardons so many rookie mistakes. In the following three cuts hobby gardeners fall mostly in disgrace and are punished in the worst case with the total failure of their roses. The following table lists common mishaps in the name, gives indications of typical damage pictures and has tips for the prevention:

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Tips

Regular and balanced nutrition is the optimal supplement to expert cut care. In order for roses to blossom lavishly, administer a special organo-mineral rose fertilizer at the end of March and at the end of June. Please pay attention to the dosage. Too much of the good makes roses soft and vulnerable. It should not be more than 60 grams per square meter.