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How to cut your raspberry tutorial with instructions

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Author: Eugene Taylor
Date Of Creation: 13 August 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
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Pruning Raspberries - Why? How? When? (2020)
Video: Pruning Raspberries - Why? How? When? (2020)

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When raspberries are cut depends on the variety

How to cut your raspberry tutorial with instructions

Really cut raspberry bushes give private gardeners with juicy-sweet fruit chocolates. Without a cut, the popular berry bushes transform in a jiffy into a dense maze of sprouts with meager crop yields. In this tutorial you can read about when and how to model summer raspberries and autumn raspberries.

Summer raspberries and autumn raspberries differ

In nurseries and garden centers, a variety of raspberry varieties are available. Gardeners can choose between summer raspberries and autumn raspberries or take both varieties home with them. So that you make the right choice, the following overview sums up the outstanding differences:

In terms of vigor, summer and autumn raspberries pull together. Premium varieties, such as 'Aroma Queen', 'Blissy' or 'Sanibel', thrive with a rapid annual growth of up to 120 centimeters. Anyone who does not provide for order and control with regular cutting measures, has to fight within a few years with an invasive spread of prickly, long tendrils in the garden.


Types of cuts and recommended dates

Bump filled harvest baskets with delicately melting raspberries are the result of a skilful harvest Tree maintenance to the right time, Make sure beforehand whether summer or autumn raspberries are in your garden. It depends significantly on when and how you cut the berry bushes properly. The following overview lists all types of cuts with tips at the right time:

Summer raspberries - planting and parenting

The successful cultivation of summer raspberries is based on a knowledgeable Education at the trellis, In the home garden has proven excellent a frame of wooden posts with clamped Wires to 30 cm, 100 cm and 180 cm in height, The length of the trellis depends on the planted number of young raspberries with an ideal planting distance of 50 centimeters. Best planting time is in early autumn, when in the sun-warm soil, the rooting rapidly progresses. How to make a planting and educating cut on summer raspberries:


In the course of the season, tie the selected rods - corresponding to the growth - vertically to the wire harness. Please use flexible binding materialthat does not cut into the soft bark. As summer raspberries grow up to 120 centimeters a year, some shoots sometimes protrude beyond the trellis in autumn. Between November and February, prune the rod tips to hand-width above the topmost trellis wire.

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Rose gloves protected against annoying spikes.

Their affiliation to the rose family can not deny raspberries. The most popular varieties are dotted with pointed spines. To make sure the scratch-brushed tendrils do not spoil the pleasure of cutting care, impenetrable rose gloves ensure pain-free working. Made of leather or sturdy nitrile and with extra long cuffs, you are well equipped with the special gloves for cutting on all thorny berry bushes, such as raspberries, gooseberries or blackberries.

Autumn raspberries - planting and parenting

Autumn raspberries make the cut care easy. Since the berry bushes are cultivated at one-year, there is no need for time-consuming tying and educating on the wire harness. They give the flexible tendrils reliable stability by hanging a steel mesh or a similar grid horizontally between two wooden posts at a height of 80 to 100 centimeters. Here the rods can grow through and do not tip over under their sweet load. How to properly complete plant and parenting on autumn raspberries:

The one-year cultivation of autumn raspberries allows easily twice the number of fruit rods per meter of cultivated area compared to summer raspberries. It should not be more than 20 rods because too dense growth promotes fungal infections, such as the dreaded Ruthen disease.

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Raspberries cut with bypass or anvil scissors?

The botanical classification as a rose family is not only reflected in raspberry growth with spiked stems. Likewise, a solid wood indicates the family relationship to rose bushes. This requires for the cut a sharp secateurs, which leaves a smooth cut wounds. For this purpose, the specialist trade offers bypass and anvil shears. Bypass scissors work with two sharp blades that divide a shoot without frayed wound edges. However, the bypass mechanism requires more effort. In contrast, an anvil scissors cut energy-saving, however, involves the risk of instinct crushing. Cause is the operation with a sharp edge, which presses the branch against a blunt anvil and only then cuts. Since every function works with individual advantages and disadvantages, the decision is subject to your horticultural assessment.

Cut summer raspberries twice a year

Starting with the second year, summer raspberries with two generations of rodents thrive on the trellis. Side by side are the fruity tendrils of the previous year and this year's rods for the raspberry harvest next year. This can cause confusion even among experts. So you do not accidentally cut off valuable, young rods and leave old rods, cut your summer raspberries after harvest. How to do it right:

As illustrated below, young raspberry rods have sufficient light, air and room for vital growth after the summer cut. Until next spring, the tendrils are spared from cutting measures. Only in February or March shoots cut too long back to an advantageous height of 150 to 180 centimeters. On this occasion, you can paint dead or frozen wood on the floor.

Summer raspberries flourish magnificently on the man-sized wire palate. Cut off all removed rods after harvesting. The ten strongest year's tendrils bind you tight. In February, you cut the shoot tips to a crop-friendly height of 150 to 180 centimeters.

Cut autumn raspberries once a year

Autumn raspberries grow, bloom and fruit in the same year. Like all fruit trees that bear their fruits on this year's wood, the cut care is easy. The year after planting, select 15 to 20 of the best tendrils for this year's harvest. This is followed by an uncomplicated rhythm for the annual pruning. How to do it right:

In the spring, remove the protective mulch in time for the shoot. It uses a rapid growth of young tendrils, which allow you to grow through the recommended wire mesh. If more than 20 rods per meter are thriving, select the most vital shoots in May and clear out any surplus. The size of the cut should be calculated according to the rule of thumb: the less fruited, the bigger and juicier the raspberries.


In autumn or early spring, cut off all the rods at the base. Autumn raspberries have a radical cut with strong shoots and big, juicy fruits.

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Sleeping eyes guarantee fresh growth after the winter


After the autumnal pruning of autumn raspberries hardly anything to see. How can it be that next year, again, mighty, densely leafed tendrils with delicious raspberries present? The mystery solution lies hidden in sleeping eyesthat are almost invisible under the bark and rhizome. Specifically, these are buds at rest. The cut of the above-ground shoots causes sleeping buds to be activated. Just in time for the beginning of the growth phase in spring, raspberries sprout from their sleeping eyes, which have been brought to life.

Special case Two-timer raspberries

There is no new raspberry species behind the denomination 'Two-Timer-Raspberries'. Rather, it is autumn raspberries that are blended like summer raspberries. In fact, any autumn raspberry can bear fruit on both this year's and last year's rods. Breeders take advantage of this feature and offer hobby gardeners Two-Timer raspberries, such as the well-known 'Sugana', as a special variety innovation. There is no pruning after the harvest, so that the fruit groats carry raspberries a second time in the early summer of the following year. From this follows this cut care:

The commercial fruit growing leaves two-timer raspberries on the left. The reason is primarily the time-consuming cultivation, coupled with a longer harvest time and a lower yield per plant. Since productivity and labor efficiency are negligible in the snack garden, the focus is on the new raspberries with two crops on each fruit trotter.

Cut raspberries on the stick

In the small garden, for cultivating in the bucket on the balcony is suitable for raspberries education on the staff. Instead of mounting a wire harness or hanging a grille, use a wooden stake about 2 meters high to support it. Plant your favorite raspberry variety in close proximity to the stick in nutrient rich, well drained soil. A plant cut to 30 centimeters promotes a vital branching. Tie the 5 strongest rods to the rod with soft tube ties. Excessive soil shoots cut off at the base.

Fall raspberries cut back after the harvest to short stub and loosen the rods from the pole. On summer raspberries, you clear out well-worn rods after the harvest to make room for this year's shoots. These guide you successively up the staff. As shown below, there should be no more than five rods on the rod.


If space is limited, raspberries thrive on the stake. More than five fruit rods should not gather at the bar. Excessive soil shoots therefore cut off consistently.

frequently asked Questions

Are raspberries self-fertile?

In fact, raspberries thrive easily as solitaires and bring you a rich harvest. An additional fertilizer variety is not required. If space permits, we still recommend planting two raspberry bushes to optimize earning power. In addition, you effectively prevent crumbs when you grow two raspberry varieties. Pure self-fertilization is always accompanied by the risk that they simply fall apart when picking raspberries.

According to the instructions, I cut back the autumn raspberry 'Aroma Queen' in the spring near the ground. Now two weeks have passed and still no shootout can be seen. What to do?

The time of pruning and sprouting are not directly related. As an autumn raspberry, 'Aroma Queen' takes until the middle / end of May time with the beginning of this year's growth. Helpful are supplementary nutrient supply and regular watering. Give ripe compost with horn shavings or organic berry fertilizer. If there is no sprouting from the ground by the end of May, the raspberry is probably dead.

My summer raspberry is in full sun and has carried many fruits in the first summer. Since mid-August the leaves turn yellow and not a single new shoot grows. Should I fertilize and cut the berry bush before autumn?

As a result of cool-wet weather, your summer raspberry will probably go into restless growth sooner. The remaining nutrients shift the plant from the leaves into the roots, so that the foliage turns yellow. Raspberries are no longer fertilized from the beginning of August, otherwise the berry bushes would not mature and freeze before winter. Only in the spring do you again administer an organic fertilizer. In summer raspberries, the older, worn shoots dry in winter and are cut to the ground in February.

Are raspberries suitable for keeping in a bucket with a trellis?

Kübelhaltung is possible for all raspberry varieties, as long as a sufficient supply of water and nutrients is ensured. An integrated trellis provides sufficient support for the long shoots. It is important to note that you repot the raspberries more often to develop new shoots in the substrate. If a rhizome becomes too big, you can share it in the fall or spring without hesitation.

Is it possible to plant young raspberries on the site where raspberry bushes used to be?

Unfortunately that is not possible. Raspberries belong to the rose family, whose growth is accompanied by soil fatigue. It is a natural process that prohibits a complete succession of rose plants or at least combines with significant disadvantages. If one raspberry bush follows the next, you will be struggling with sick, weak and miserable plants. Alternatively, plant plants of another family at the site for three to five years or you can exchange the soil over a wide area.

Are there any raspberries without spikes?

A colorful round of prickly raspberry varieties makes the cultivation even easier and above all painless. The innovative variety Primeberry Autumn Amber thrives as an uncomplicated autumn raspberry with yellow fruits and dispenses with any sting. Those who prefer red raspberries from stingless tendrils prefer Primeberry Mailing Happy. For the small garden offers the dwarf variety Lowberry Red Princess, which has also made a name as a stingless premium variety.

Our two-timer-raspberry branches little. Can I promote branching through a cut?

By nature, raspberries do not branch very well. Rather, the berry bushes form very long, annual rods. Only in the second year branch the one-year rods. These side branches then bear fruit again. The Two-Timer Raspberry combines this growth with a sleek, upright silhouette. With one cut you can not increase the natural branching. The two-timer cultivar 'Sugana' gets pretty bushy anyway, because it produces both one-year and two-year old wood.

The 3 most common cut defects

If a raspberry bush presents itself as a hopeless rod whirlwind of many old and few young shoots with miserable fruits, they are mostly typical mistakes in the cut care behind it. To save you from unpleasant problems in the cultivation of raspberries, the following table draws attention to the three most common cutting errors:

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Tips

Raspberries tend to show pronounced growth with foothills. So that the berry bushes do not incorporate the entire garden, planting with root barrier effectively prevents. Dress the plant pit about 30 centimeters deep with pond liner or a special rhizome barrier.