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Exemplarily cutting blackberries - A tutorial

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Author: John Stephens
Date Of Creation: 27 January 2021
Update Date: 1 July 2024
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Exemplarily cutting blackberries - A tutorial - Garden
Exemplarily cutting blackberries - A tutorial - Garden

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Cutting blackberries is usually very fast

Exemplarily cutting blackberries - A tutorial

Summer time is blackberry time. From July to October, the tart-sweet harvest time extends. This is true, of course, on the premise that you have timely and knowledgeable cut care. This tutorial will familiarize you with all aspects of the proper cut of blackberry bushes.

Where do the berries appear?

Cutting blackberries is easier to see through if you're familiar with the specific growth characteristics. We invite you to a short excursion into the botanical peculiarities of our oldest native berry bushes. To grow, bloom and fruit blackberries:

Cropped fruit shoots die off in winter. This feature simplifies the cut care of blackberry bushes. The greatest challenge for the gardener is therefore the distinction between young, future fruit rods and well-worn tendrils.For the harvest of juicy blackberries a single shrub is sufficient, because the berry trees self-pollinating are.


Editing options and appointments

Blackberry pruning pursues two goals: removal of worn out rods and promotion of young tendrils for this year's harvest. Since even low-growing, thornless varieties grow up to 100 centimeters per year, you can not avoid an annual, consistent cut. Already in the year of planting the scissors ensures order in the berry bush. In the following years, a courageous approach is important so you do not grow the growth rockets over the head, shading each other and young fruit wood fails due to lack of light. The following table summarizes all editing options with recommended dates:

Plant section with espalier education

Prickly blackberries have become obsolete in the garden. American premium varieties such as 'Thornless Oregon' or 'Navaho', which do without a prickly thorn dress, are in high demand. Instead, the new favorites in the orchard thrive with strong growth and large berries. Since the cut care depends significantly on the fact that you can distinguish between one-year and two-year tendrilsThe next trellis education from the start takes care of order in the bramble. This is how it works:


Less expansive varieties, such as the slender 'Navaho', are satisfied with a shorter wire harness of 3 to 4 meters. Important to note is sufficient space on both sides to help you find the long tendrils reciprocally connect to keep track.

The selected fruit rods bind to the right or left parallel to the growth on the wire palette, horizontally to fan-shaped. On these tendrils your blackberry will bear the first fruits next year. The opposite side initially remains unprown in the planting year. This place is reserved for the young tendrilsthat grow in the second year and produce in the third year.

Tips

Thorny blackberries tend to grow vigorously with runners. If you have opted for a classic blackberry variety, such as 'Theodor Reimers', you should use a pond liner as a root barrier to protect the plant pit as a precaution. It is sufficient if the exclusion zone extends to a depth of 30 centimeters. Blackberries thrive as a flat root.

Mutual education and conservation cut

In private cultivation of blackberries, the mutual education Proven excellent because it raises no questions about what to cut in February and what not. Therefore, continue with the recommended parenting method as initiated in the planting year. So easy to complete the cut care of blackberries for a rich harvest:

Now you benefit from the mutual education. On one side of the espalier are the disused, largely dead tendrils that gave you delicious blackberries the previous autumn. On the opposite side thrive now the two-year-old rods, the side shoots are blooming and fruit this year. Shorten these side shoots vigorously, because until the beginning of the flowering season they show a rapid growth in length.


Tie one- and two-year-old rods separately at the wire harness. The worn rods of the previous year will be cut to floor level in February. The side shoots of last year's tendrils intersect on short stubs with two buds.

Do not cut blackberries after harvest

Please do not be tempted to cut your blackberries immediately after harvest in autumn. Undoubtedly, at this point, the easiest way to tell which rods are to be cut and which is not. As with all shrubs, your blackberry will thrill after a pruning. So late in the year, the fresh shoots can not mature in time and have nothing to counter the first frost. The berry shrub freezes completely in the worst case and does not go out next spring.

Single exception for the autumn pruning applies to mild winter regionsas on the Lower Rhine, along the Mosel, Ahr and Neckar. Where in winter the thermometer does not drop below - 10 degrees Celsius, a bramble bush can cope with the late cutting time.

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Cut off blackberry trunks bring valuable life

In the natural garden worn blackberry rods are not disposed of carelessly. The long tendrils are often used by wild bees as nurseries for their larvae. Please do not dismember the shoots, but leave as long as possible the natural length. Bundle the clippings and store it as sun-drenched deadwood. Thus, the larvae can mature in peace and participate as a fully-grown wild bees busily in the pollination of your ornamental and useful plants. Maintaining a Benjes hedge, exposed blackberry tendrils are an ideal component. In the cottage garden, the flexible rods are simply woven into a Staketen- or hunter fence.

Summer cut - prune blackberries

On vigilantly vigorous blackberries, a cut in the late winter is not enough to prevent the berry bushes from a confusing scrub. When this year's tendrils sprout from the rhizome, they form in the summer lateral Geiztriebe, These are infertile, abundantly leafy shoots that cast shadows on flowers and fruits. By pricking a bramble in the summer, you will promote bloom abundance and fruit yield. Surplus, recognizable weak ground shoots should be removed on this occasion. How to complete an expert summer cut:

In side shoots, out this year's rods grow, it is always about epicormic shoot, Several disadvantages are associated with growth. Unless you mutually educate the bramble, the leaves will throw unnecessary shadows on flowers and fruits. This disadvantage does not apply to a separate education. Nevertheless, Geiz drives should also be cut back in reciprocal education, because they compete with the main drives for nutrients and water.

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Cut fruit wood on buds - that's how it works

When the cut on blackberries is dedicated to the side shoots, the buds are the focus. A knowledgeable cut always starts where a bud is directed outwards. To identify is a bud as a slight to prominent thickening on the shoot. Leaf buds form alternately along the shoots in many places. Flower buds thrive at the terminal branches of the mighty tendrils. Geiztriebe sprout during the summer from the leaf axils of the side shoots. Apply the scissors to a bud at a short distance of 0.5 to a maximum of 1.0 centimeters. If a cut leaves too long a stub in February or July, rot and pest infestation are inevitable.

Column cut - cut upright blackberries

In the small garden and on the balcony blackberries were a rare guest for a long time. Modern, slow-growing and thornless varieties pave the way for blackberries from their own crop if space is at a premium. As part of the planting tie off the two strongest soil shoots on a bamboo stick. All other soil shoots cut off at the base. In the course of summer and autumn you guide the tendrils up the support post. In February of each year, you undergo a vigorous maintenance cut your column blackberry. How to do it right:

As you proceed with the harvested rods, upright blackberries are subject to your assessment. Proven in practice, a pruning after harvest on a 10 to 15 centimeters long stump has proven. From the sleeping eyes, the plant will next year drive new tendrils that will lead you up the staff. Alternatively, cut off worn rods in February on the ground level and lead the most promising specimens up from this year's floor drives. All remaining shoots from the rhizome cut off at the base.

frequently asked Questions

My three blackberry bushes are four years old and have grown a lot. The place is far from enough. Can I replant the blackberries without any problems? When is the best time?

Within the first five years, you can easily transplant blackberries. The best time is after the fall of leaves between October and November. Prick off the root ball in a large radius with a spade. The fewer roots are demolished when lifted, the better for rooting. Prepare the new location with fresh compost soil and water abundantly to allow the berry bushes to grow well. A pruning in February should compensate for the lost root volume.

Do blackberry bushes make many foothills? Should I plant with a root barrier?

For popular varieties, such as the thornless 'Navaho', no root barrier is needed. Thorny game species and emerged varieties are characterized by a vigorous growth with foothills. Plant these blackberries with an impenetrable geoil that lines the plant pit about 30 inches deep. To control the above-ground, long tendrils, we recommend fixation on a trellis.

Our thornless bramble has produced only a few fruits in the second year. Is this normal for a young blackberry or is it missing a pollinator?

Blackberries are dependent on a good supply of nutrients. As part of the planting, compost and horn shavings should be added to the soil. If not re-fertilized in the second year, yield and fruit size suffer. Furthermore, the berry habit leaves something to be desired if the shrub is not regularly lighted and cropped. Basically, blackberries are self-pollinating. A second variety nearby always optimizes the crop yield.

Are blackberries hardy?

In the Central European climate, blackberries are sufficiently hardy. This is on the condition that you no longer fertilize from the beginning of August. The worn, two year old rods usually come in during the winter. Optionally cut the shoots after harvest or in February back to the ground. Under certain circumstances, blackberry bushes will dry over the winter. Dried shoots simply cut out in spring. Winter protection is not necessary according to experience. Only with long-lasting bald frosts we recommend to cover the root area with fleece.

Are blackberries suitable for keeping in the bucket? Which variety is especially recommended?

In principle, all blackberries in the bucket can be cultivated. However, the strong growth of classical species is accompanied by extensive and frequent pruning. Recommended for the pot attitude is the rather weak and thornless variety, Navaho '. The berry bush grows up by nature and does not need a bulky wire harness. Nursing and harvesting are easier if you grow a blackberry bush in a bucket on a single support pole.

For the past six years I have been cultivating two brambles of the thornless variety Loch Ness in the garden. After the plants grow each year with thick neurons, the current tendrils remain thin and weak. The blackberries are fertilized with blue grain / Entec. Are the berry bushes still to save?

A nutrient supply with mineral blue grain is to be seen as the cause here. The concentrated nitrogen charge ensures increased growth of numerous and thin neutrals. Our advice: Change to an organic fertilizer such as mature compost and horn shavings or administer the berry fertilizer from Oscorna. Cut all thin tendrils off the ground, as no fruit wood will develop from them. As a result of the conversion in fertilizing the brambles come back into balance and thrive now with strong rods.

Is there an evergreen blackberry that can grow as a screen for my chicken coop?

Unfortunately, there is no blackberry that thrives evergreen in the true sense of the word. The classic variety, Theodor Reimers' wears a wintergreen foliage dress, which keeps in mild conditions into the late winter. Only as a result of severe frost does the sheet shedding begin. However, it is a striking spiky blackberry. If you would like a thornless blackberry that retains its leaves for a long time, we recommend 'Thornless Evergreen'.

The 3 most common cut defects

Without a cut, you'll wrestle with impenetrable blackberries in no time, spreading out in the garden. If the gardener misses an orderly upbringing, valuable fruited shoots fall victim to the cut. The following overview shows you the three most common cuts on blackberries and gives tips for prevention:

Another, common cutting error undermines gardeners already in the preparation phase. If unclean scissors are used, blackberry bushes spread diseases and pests. Cut berry bushes and all other plants in your garden only when you have the blades, blades or saw blades thoroughly cleaned and with alcohol or Sagrotan disinfected to have.

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Tips

The cut in early spring use clever blackberry gardeners equal to the propagation. Just prick some young rods off. Then cut the shoots to a length of 20 to 30 centimeters. Insert the offshoots at a distance of 2 meters into the nutrient-rich, loose soil in the partially shaded spot. At this point, the cuttings grow within a short time to yielding blackberry bushes zoom.