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Correctly cut the cherry - tutorial with instructions

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Author: Laura McKinney
Date Of Creation: 5 August 2021
Update Date: 10 May 2024
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How To Prune Cherry Trees Simple Steps
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Columnal cherries are cut after harvest

Correctly cut the cherry - tutorial with instructions

On the balcony and terrace, pillar cherries are the hit. In the small garden, the space-saving fruit trees are also very popular. Hobby gardeners appreciate the uncomplicated cut care. Read in this tutorial when and how to skilfully cut a pillar cherry.

Best time is in the summer

In terms of the ideal time for the cut, the narrow columnar cherry does not differ from the imposing cherry tree. After the harvest, you have the best overview of the removed fruit wood. Furthermore, speaks for a summer cut appointment that cuts close faster. This keeps lurking fungal spores and pests at bay.

A barley cherry usually enters its earning phase at the latest in the third year. This eliminates the need for a lengthy educational cut during the winter, as is obligatory for the large cherry tree. On older specimens, a cut in the lower area is advantageous if the fruit wood starts to get old.


Never cut in the rain

Do not cut a pillar cherry at any time of the year in humid weather. Cuts in damp wood are a welcome attack surface for fungi. This does not just apply to the usual suspects, like mildew or gray horse. Although lethal wound parasites trigger fruit tree cancer, they are primarily targeting apple and pear. However, if a susceptible cherry gets in their way, the fungal spores will not miss this opportunity.

preservation section

In contrast to the conventional cherry tree in the garden, the sprouts on a pillar cherry Fruit wood straight from the trunk, In combination with strong growth at a young age, cherries are more commonly cut as prunus fruit. As illustrated below, the Conservation Section focuses on long side shoots. How to cut a pillar cherry properly:

Steep upward shoots are in competition with the trunk and are not suitable for fruit wood. In order for these branches to consume no valuable nutrients, they should be removed. If a steep drive is in a favorable position, spread it at an angle of about 60 ° to the trunk. This works with a spreader or a clothespin.



Excessive side shoots of a columnar cherry cut back after harvest to 10 to 15 cm. Steep shoots clear or spread the wood in an advantageous angle of 60 °.

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Do not curtail the leading drive prematurely

The timing of cutting the Leittrieb tip will be well considered. Young cherries are characterized by a powerful growth. As long as the lace bud perched on the Leitast, the law of peak promotion rules. The cherry pumps a large part of the reserve materials towards their dominant tip, in order to accelerate the growth to the light. Lateral shoots receive less nutrients and grow accordingly weaker. Weaker growth always causes fruit trees to produce numerous flowers and fruits. Only cut the tip bud on the lance when growth has calmed down after a few years. The desired final height may first be exceeded. In return, your cane flower blooms abundantly.

Cut old pillar cherry step by step

Characteristic of older column cherries is a different growth in the upper and lower area. In the lower half, the increase visibly weakens over the years and the fruit wood ages. Crop yield and fruit quality decrease noticeably. From such signs of aging is in the upper half of the column far and wide no trace. You can just accept the shortcoming or compensate with a strategic cut care. This is how it works:

The two-part appointment choice has no influence on the cut. Excessive, worn branches shorten to 10 to 15 cm. Competitive impulses and dead wood excavate you. The disadvantage of a late-winter cut is the fact that already established flower buds of the pair of scissors fall victim. Useful is a step by step pruning, if the pillar cherry clear signs of aging and almost no flowers and fruit in the lower half anyway.

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Cut timing affects picking strength

The later you cut in the year, the more reserve the root has already released to the shoots. This dampens the juice pressure at interfaces, which can be recognized by a significantly weaker shootout. Conversely, a late-winter cut activates vigorous growth because the juice pressure is at its maximum level. From this follows this rule of thumb: Prune the strongly awake areas of a pillar cherry in the summer, in order to calm the growth. Cut weaker areas in February to accelerate growth.

Educate pillar cherry - is that possible?

The pillar cherry is a hit everywhere, where majestic cherry trees are out of place. So it is obvious that amateur gardeners flirt with it to educate the slender fruit tree variant itself. In contrast to popular high stems, the bar for setting up a cherry as a column fruit is much higher. The following arguments speak for it, a pillar cherry from the hands of the gardener to acquire:

Sweet cherries are therefore not born as pillar fruit. Rather, they thrive in the nursery first as a spindle tree. Only when a cherry with a strikingly strong, straight central drive and short side shoots draws attention to itself, the specimen for the further education to the pillar cherry is selected. For this purpose, the master gardener refines the cherry on a weak-growing surface. High esteem enjoys, GiSelA 5 'thanks to robust winter hardiness and early earnings start.

Tips

A pillar does not need the pillar cherry. In refining, nurseries use break-resistant documents that guarantee growth in growth right from the start.

frequently asked Questions

Is a pillar cherry self-fertile?

In the specialized trade offered pillar cherries are mostly not self-fertile. Modern varieties declare the suppliers sometimes as self-fertile. Nevertheless, this attribute should be treated with caution. Basically advantageous for Harvest Day and Fruit Quality is when there is a second variety nearby. This can also be a big cherry tree in the neighbor's garden.

Does a tree cherry tree planted in the spring need winter protection?

Cherries are naturally sensitive to late frosts. The greatest danger is when temperatures fall below freezing during the flowering season. In this case, a fleece or large potato sack should be at hand. Put a hood over the pillar cherry to protect the flowers against frost damage.

3 years ago I planted a pillar cherry, which is now almost 4 meters high. Unfortunately, only a few branches have been formed so far. Shall I cut the lead now or continue to grow?

In order to support the formation of side shoots, a cut on the leader is the right strategy. Best time is in early spring. Cut the main shoot back to a strong bud. The result is a juice jam that encourages lateral buds to sprout. Already existing branches cut to 15 cm at the end of June.

I planted my two pillar cherries, Victoria and Sylvia, last spring. Since then, both plants have grown by one meter and now wear a dense foliage dress in March, unfortunately without flowers. What can I do?

As a rule, cherries bloomed from the second or third year of May. Even in the particularly mild spring, the flowers show up at the earliest from mid / end of April. The flower buds grow in the last year, provided the soil has a well-balanced nitrogen-phosphorus ratio. The strong increase indicates that your garden soil contains an excess of nitrogen. This circumstance can suppress the flower formation. We recommend that you carry out a soil analysis or, at least this summer, apply a phosphorus-enriched fertilizer to produce numerous flower buds.

My pillar cherry had three long shoots at the top which I cut off. Do I have to expect that the process should be repeated and the plant should be cut off radically?

Of the three shoots you should have left the middle, long leader. It is the tip that fulfills the function of a crown on column fruit. This is not a cause for concern, because the cherry makes a new leader grow with complementary side branches. Please do not trim the new crown in height. Only the side shoots cut you at the end of June to 10 to 15 cm.

The 3 most common cut defects

A wrong cutting time or an overzealous cut will leave a pillar cherry that does not deserve its name. The three most common cutting errors with hints on damage and prevention bring the following table to the point:

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Tips

In the cut care of pillar cherries no thinning of the Fruchtbehangs is required. In apple, pear or peach care, excess fruit must be removed by the end of June. You can delete this date from the care calendar on Kirschbaum and Säulenkirsche without replacement.